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    10/27/2009

    文字的魔力

        这是LP上介绍的酒店,在其他定房网上从来找不到。因为阿罕布拉宫在GRANADA的山上,而大部分的酒店都在位于山下城市了。惟独这一座,位于皇宫里面。一座外表朴素的小楼改建而成。
        名字有点无厘头,西班牙的穆斯林皇宫和美国人有什么关系呢。据说也是一段恩惠。
        尽管伊莎贝拉深爱GRANADA,最后和丈夫女儿同葬在这里的教堂中,但这仍无法阻止西班牙王朝大肆兴旺了北部的城市。毕竟,这里是前朝的故都(PS,你去过南京就知道了)于是这么一颗绝美明珠,都几百年后逐渐蒙尘。直到19世纪美国作家华盛顿.欧文在这座小楼里住了三个月,并写下了描述阿罕布拉宫前身旧故的名著《赭城记事》(tale of Alhambra),才让阿罕布拉宫重见天日。把这座小楼命名为HOTEL AMERICA,是当地人一种朴素的感谢吧。一本小说,有时候能挽救一段尘封的历史。
        酒店是全程定得最贵的一间,双人间120欧,外加每人8欧一份不知道吃些什么的早餐,但正因为定了在山上的酒店,在前一天傍晚的时候,已经可以慢慢游览过王宫里大部分的建筑,只剩下得凭门票一次有效的纳拉里埃斯宫和花园。第二天吃过早餐,让我安稳地充当早上8点半第一批进宫的游客。
        赶在朝露未落,空气中还弥漫了花草清香的时刻,走在了所有旅行团之前,可以在每一个角落细细寻找一个王朝的背景。而走到移步换景的花园的时候,刚好赶上了早上10点明媚而刺眼的阳光。西班牙6月的阳光已经很刺痛,尤其是在南部。
        所以看完了纳拉里埃斯宫和花园后,当其他游客还得气喘吁吁地去看城堡的时候,我们已经悠闲地躲回酒店喝咖啡,等着下午的火车离开。
        当然,HOTEL AMERICA最吸引人的还不仅是地理位置,而是那种现在用钱也买不回的历史感。我们的房间有扇窗,厚重的木框,里面镶嵌了不同颜色的玻璃,这种窗户,其实小时候的西关大屋也是有的,配上了艳丽的桃红薄纱。窗外是枝叶茂盛,一眼的绿色。山风吹来,薄纱轻舞,阳光透过不同颜色的玻璃,在红色地砖上打出各种色斑。这种绚丽的光阴,已经找不到了。
       
        
           

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