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    7/3/2009

    寂寞青花词

       
       
        最出名的北京路在广州,而南京路则在上海。但这两条路也不能相提并论的。北京一等一的大街曰“长安”“王府井”,姑且把北京路步行街大名让给广州,是首都对南大门的关照。而南京路之于上海,则是六朝古都对洋人租界的无奈。
       
        最出名的西班牙广场,在意大利。
       
        《罗马假日》里公主大人吃雪糕那里,于是,在整整半个世纪中,罗马的西班牙广场楼梯上永远坐满了人,而且人手一支雪糕。意大利的雪糕是一绝,但这个浩荡的吃法,也让人震撼。
        西班牙人对罗马西班牙广场的感觉,或许更多的是偏向南京人吧。于是,西班牙最美丽的西班牙广场,远远地躲到了南部塞维利亚。
       塞维利亚的西班牙广场不过百年历史,为当年的美洲博览会而建。建筑上维持了当地欧式融合穆斯林风情的特色。以赭色为主调半月形的广场占地甚大,一正两辅三座高楼浩荡地排开。楼下是一条条延伸出来的石基,把半月型广场分成均等的几十片,每片都用瓷砖镶嵌了西班牙一个地区的风情。楼前一道护城河,河上的几座桥,全是密密麻麻的瓷柱排成,白底靛蓝花纹的瓷柱,颇有“青花瓷”的韵味。这样的广场在南欧诸国中,算得上是大气的了。
        去的那天已是傍晚,落日余晖照在干淌的河道上,照在支离破碎却又无人修缮的青花瓷上,连每个省份一张的瓷画都有点脂残粉退了。
        浩大的广场游客不多,登楼而上,两个卖艺的吉普塞人坐在楼梯中央,难得见人走过,唱得更加买力。羊男想拍他们的照片,那女人配合地抬头,我默默地放下几个零碎的硬币,于是歌声更亮。只是,无论如何欢快的音乐,散落在寂寥的广场中,总是有点落寞。
        诺大的广场中仅有一摊小贩,铺开些劣质的西班牙纸扇,手里甩着响板招揽生意。楼下吉普塞人的歌声停了,仅余下清脆的响板声,惊起一地归鸟。
        繁华过后,西班牙广场和西班牙一样,归隐到沉沉暮色中去。
     

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    羊男wrote:
    塞维利亚的西班牙广场,青花依旧瓷铿锵,夕阳的余晖和游人的稀落消减了博览会的刻意,增添了几分孤寂的风情;令人欣慰的是,欧罗巴杂交穆斯林诞生的她,虽非国色天香,亦尚算端庄周正,暮色朝霞交替,静待下一个百年。
    July 6

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